Taking a look at the Bose L1 Model 1S and comparing to the L1 Model 2 and the L1 Compact.Buy Bose Products: and Technology News here: h. Thank you for purchasing the Bose®L1®model 1S system with ToneMatch®port. Based on a revolutionary new technology, this system brings the benefits of an intimate acoustic concert to amplified performance. This owne r’s guide provides detailed setup and op erating instructions fo r your L1 system and explains how to connect equipment to it. Discover the Bose® L1® Model 1S system with B2 bass for audiences up to 300. This system is great for live sound and easy transport, setup and breakdown. View the manual for the Bose L1 Model 1S here, for free. This manual comes under the category Hi-Fi systems and has been rated by 1 people with an average of a 5.4. This manual is available in the following languages: English. Do you have a question about the Bose L1 Model 1S or do you need help? Ask your question here User manual Bose L1 Model. L1 Model 1S top array: 111 cm H x 9 cm W x 10.5 cm D (7.4 kg) L1 Model 1S bottom extension: 100.6 cm H x 10.6 cm W x 10.5 cm D (3.8 kg) L1 Model 1S power stand: 12.8 cm H x 26.2 cm W x 69.2 cm D (10.7 kg) B2 bass module: 59.4 cm H x 33.8 cm W x 48 cm D (20.41 kg).

• Bose L1 1s Manual
• Bose L1 Model 1 Manual

• 1Using a stereo mixer with an L1
  • 1.1L1® Inputs
• 4General Principles
  • 4.1Connections
• 5Specific Mixers

Using a stereo mixer with an L1

General principles for connecting a stereo mixer to the mono input on your L1 .

The inputs on the L1 Model 1S, L1 Model II, and the Compact Channel 2 ¼ inch jack are MONO. Check to see if your mixer has a MONO output. If it does, then use that.

If your mixer does not have a mono output pan all your inputs to one side (e.g. LEFT) and take the LEFT output and connect that to your L1 .

For best results do NOT use any kind of Y-adapter to connect stereo outputs from a mixer to a mono input on an L1 . See Why Not Wye for details.

If you have questions or comments about this article please post a note in the Bose Forum - Technical Questions.

L1® Inputs

L1® Model 1S Analog Input

L1® Model II Analog Input

Setting the Trim Control

1. Set the Trim control on the power stand to the 0 (zero) position.
2. Connect the audio source to the Analog Input
3. Adjust the volume of the Mixer output to the reference or nominal output level.
   • On analog consoles this may be marked as unity or 0 dB.
   • On digital consoles this may be marked as -18 dBFS^[1][2]. The exact value (-18 dBFS to -20 dBFS) may vary depending your location^[3].
   • Refer to the manual for the Mixer for details.
   • If the Mixer does not have metering or indicators, set the output as high as you can without hearing distortion or seeing red indicator lights.
4. While playing/singing as loud as you will during your performance, increase the Trim level so that the Signal/Clip indicator glows green or yellow. Occasional flickers of red are okay.
5. If the Signal/Clip indicator glows solid red or you hear distortion, decrease the Trim level so that it glows only green or yellow.

L1® Compact Channel 2

The Compact is different from the Model 1S and Model II because it can accept stereo inputs on the Channel 2 1/8' and RCA inputs.

Stereo Inputs on Compact Channel 2

If have RCA outputs from your mixer you can connect to the Compact Channel 2 RCA inputs. It's likely that the RCA outputs on the mixer are recording outputs and you may have control the output level separate from the mixer master faders. Please see your manual for details.

If you have a way to convert the mixer stereo output to 1/8' stereo jack then you can connect to Compact Channel 2 1/8' stereo input.

Use a cable like this from your backing track source (iPod, Computer, CD / DVD player)

Click picture for details

or if your cable has RCA (phono) jacks you can use a cable like this.

Click picture for details

Mono Input on Compact Channel 2

Start with the Volume set straight up and adjust so that you get a solid green signal. If you see red, turn the trim down.

The ¼ inch jack input accepts a balanced or unbalanced connection.

Can a stereo signal be used with the ¼ inch jack input?

A ¼ inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve connector carrying a stereo signal should not be used with the analog input on the L1 Compact.

Even though a ¼ inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve connector can carry a stereo signal this is not how this physical connection is used on the L1 Compact.

The ¼ inch jack input on the L1 Compact is balanced, and will therefore subtract the Left and Right signals on a stereo cable and you will hear almost no signal in the L1 Compact.

The 1/8 inch jack is STEREO not Balanced

Acrobat xi serial number generator. The L1 Compact Channel 2: 1/8-inch jack is STEREO not BALANCED.

The written documentation is incorrect. It says:

1/8-inch stereo input - Balanced analog input for connecting audio sources such as portable mp3 players, satellite radio, laptop computers, video projectors, and smart boards.

Correction

1/8-inch stereo input - Balanced Stereo analog input for connecting audio sources such as portable mp3 players, satellite radio, laptop computers, video projectors, and smart boards.

Source Neil-at-Bose

General Principles

It's easy to make this work. You can pan all your inputs hard LEFT and take the LEFT output and connect that to your L1 . If you have a stereo source and two stereo channels, then you can

1. Run the left side of the stereo source to the left input on one stereo channel,
2. Run and the right side of the stereo source to the left side of another stereo channel.
3. Pan any other inputs hard left
4. Use the left output of mixer and connect that to the L1 Analog input.

Question: Is there a loss of quality when using only one output (e.g. Left only)?
No loss of quality. See Mixer Left Output Only

Connections

Where possible use a balanced connection between the mixer output and the L1® input.

XLR Mixer to 1/4 Tip-Ring-Sleeve L1®

The output side is XLR so you will also need a converter or cable that is XLR female to Balanced ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve.

1/4 Tip-Ring-Sleeve Mixer to 1/4 Tip-Ring-Sleeve L1®

The output side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack and the input on the Bose side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack. Use a cable like this.

.

Here are a some examples of how you can get a mono output out of your stereo mixer.

Specific Mixers

Allen & Heath ZED 10-FX

Allen Heath ZED-FX10 web page

Use a cable like this:

The output side is XLR so you will also need a converter or cable that is XLR female to Balanced ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve.

Allen & Heath ZED Sixty-14FX

Allen Heath ZED Sixty-14FX web page

Use a cable like this:

The output side is XLR so you will also need a converter or cable that is XLR female to Balanced ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve.

Alto Live 802

Alto Live 802 web page

Use a cable like this:

The output side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack and the input on the Bose side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack. Use a cable like this.

.

Behringer Eurorack UB1222FX

Use a cable like this:

The output side is XLR so you will also need a converter or cable that is XLR female to Balanced ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve.

Behringer Eurorack X1222USB

Use a cable like this:

The output side is XLR so you will also need a converter or cable that is XLR female to Balanced ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve.

Behringer Xenix 1202FX

The 1/4 inch (6.3mm) outputs on this mixer are unbalanced mono.

Use a cable like this:

1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Sleeve

Mackie 1402 VLZ4

Mackie CFX-12

link to Mackie CFX-12 Manual

Mackie ProFX8

Mackie ProFX12

Mackie ProFX12V2

Presonus Studio Live 16.0.2

There is a Mono output.

Use a cable like this:

The output side is XLR so you will also need a converter or cable that is XLR female to Balanced ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve.

If you don't have access to cable like the one above, you can use one of the ¼ inch jack Tip-Ring-Sleeve balanced outputs. You can pan all the inputs to the LEFT side and use the LEFT output.

Yamaha MG10

The output side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack and the input on the Bose side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack. Use a cable like this.

.

Yamaha MG10 web page

Yamaha MG10/2

The output side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack and the input on the Bose side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack. Use a cable like this.

.

Bose L1 1s Manual

Yamaha MG12XU

The output side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack and the input on the Bose side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack. Use a cable like this.

.

Yamaha MGXU web page

Yamaha MG82CX

The output side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack and the input on the Bose side is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve jack. Use a cable like this.

.

1. ↑dBFS
2. ↑dBU vs dBFS
3. ↑dBFS Analog Levels

When Bose first announced their L1 “Cylindrical Radiator” loudspeaker system back in 2003, it was considered a radical approach to a live PA system. Over the years, as musiciansincreasinglyadopted the new design, countless competitors began to launch column-style PA systems of their own. When Bose retired their original L1 Classic and L1 Model I, the Bose L1 Model II and L1 Model L1S set the standard, with the L1 Compact system proving the most popular. And now, Bose is back with their L1 Pro series. Read on to see how the Bose L1 Pro8, Pro16, and Pro32 stack up against legacy Bose L1 models.

Bose L1 Pro8 vs. L1 Compact

Bose L1 Model 1 Manual

Let’s start by comparing the L1 Pro8, Bose’s smallest L1 Pro model, with the L1 Compact. The L1 Pro8 has a noticeably bigger built-in subwoofer with its 7×13″ RaceTrack sub, versus the 8″ round sub on the L1 Compact. The whole system weighs 38.9 pounds compared to the L1 Compact’s 29.2 pounds.

That extra 9.7 pounds gets you an additional +6 dB SPL of output — 112 dB continuous/118 dB peak SPL at 1 meter, compared to 106 dB continuous/112 dB peak SPL from the L1 Compact. A +6 dB increase in sound pressure level means a doubling of amplitude — which corresponds to about a 50% increase in perceived loudness. As any acoustician will tell you, “loudness” is a subjective measure, but +6 dB SPL is a significant and noticeable increase.

The L1 Pro8’s larger sub also means it reaches significantly lower lows, covering a wider frequency response of 45 Hz to 16 kHz, while the L1 Compact bottoms out at 65 Hz and tops out at 14 kHz. Deep bass frequencies require more power (watts), and if you’ve ever pushed an L1 Compact to the limits of its output, you’ll be pleased to learn that the L1 Pro8 offers more than twice the wattage, according to Bose.

The L1 Compact continues to hold its place as the lightest, most affordable L1 system — making it an especially good fit for speech applications, solo singer-songwriters, or anything that doesn’t require a lot of low-end punch. But the L1 Pro8 adds more than just power — it also adds flexibility, with a built-in Bluetooth receiver and a ToneMatch port that lets you plug in more channels via a Bose ToneMatch mixer. Thanks to its additional wattage, the Pro8 can handle those extra inputs and get plenty loud, so it’s worth the extra investment compared to the L1 Compact.

Bose L1 Pro16 vs. L1 Model 1S + B1 Bass Module

The Bose L1 Model 1S was the “middle child” of the Bose L1 lineup, designed to deliver a “balance of power and portability.” Now, Bose is retiring the Model L1S and replacing it with the L1 Pro16 — and it’s a significant upgrade.

For starters, the L1 Pro16 has way more power. While the L1 Model 1S + B1 bass module made extremely efficient use of each one of its 375 watts, the L1 Pro16 blows it away with a whopping 1,250 watts. More wattage translates to a louder L1: While the Model 1S delivered 112 dB continuous/118 dB peak SPL at 1 meter, the Pro16 is +6 dB SPL louder, with 118 dB continuous/124 dB peak SPL. Frequency-response-wise, the B1 bass module digs down to a deep 40 Hz while the L1 Pro16’s built-in sub reaches a not-quite-as-low 42 Hz. However, the Pro16 reaches up to 16 kHz while the L1 Model 1S tops out at 12 kHz. Gotta have those highs.

Did we mention that the L1 Pro16 is actually 21.6 pounds lighter than its predecessor? At 53.7 pounds for the Pro16, vs. 75.3 pounds for the old L1 Model 1S + B1 combo, the new system is a much easier carry.

While you’re scratching your head trying to figure out how Bose shaved 21.6 pounds off this system while making it a lot louder, consider that the Pro16 also adds the on-board 3-channel mixer, where the old L1 Model 1S offered nothing of the sort. Considering all these advantages, it’s no surprise Bose has opted to retire the Model 1S in favor of the Pro16.

Bose L1 Pro32 vs. L1 Model II

Let’s compare the flagship of the L1 Pro family, the Bose L1 Pro32, with Bose’s previous top-dog L1, the L1 Model II. The Pro32 tower comes bundled with a choice of Sub1 or Sub2 subwoofers. We’ll start with a look at the more affordable Pro32 + Sub1 bundle.

How does the L1 Pro32 + Sub1 stack up versus the legacy L1 Model II + B1 bass module? The newer system offers 117 dB continuous/123 dB peak SPL at 1 meter, beating out the old system’s 115 dB continuous/121 dB peak SPL by +2 dB SPL. The L1 Pro32 + Sub1 also wins when it comes to high-end frequency response, delivering 40 Hz – 16 kHz while the Model II + B1 covers 40 Hz – 12 kHz. At 63.5 pounds for the L1 Pro32 + Sub1 compared to 84 pounds for the L1 Model II + B1, it’s really a no-brainer: the Pro32 + Sub1 configuration is 20.5 pounds lighter.

Finally, let’s compare the largest, most powerful L1 systems: the Bose L1 Pro32 + Sub2 bundle vs. the L1 Model II + B2 bass module. The Pro32 + Sub2 system clocks in at 122 dB continuous/128 dB peak on the SPL meter. For frequency response, it tops out 16 kHz, and digs all the way down to 37 Hz thanks to the Sub2’s massive 10×18″ RaceTrack woofer. This puts it ahead of the L1 Model II + B2 combo, which offers 115 dB continuous/121 dB peak SPL and 40 Hz – 12 kHz. The newer system can get +7 dB SPL louder, and at 80.3 pounds vs. 102.4 pounds, it’s 22.1 pounds lighter.

Bose says their whole Model II + B2 system is powered by 500 watts, while the Pro32 + Sub2 dishes out 1,480 watts. With the caveat that wattage isn’t necessarily the best measure of a PA system, and knowing that all Bose column speakers squeeze a lot out of each watt, it’s still obvious that the Pro32 + Sub2 system packs significantly more power. Plus it’s got the built-in 3-channel mixer, which is a huge advantage over any Model II system: many solo/duo acts can get away with plugging straight into the Pro32 and skip bringing a separate mixer. That wasn’t an option with the L1 Model II.

Bose Sub1 and Sub2 vs. B1 and B2 Bass Modules

When it comes to Bose’s subwoofer offerings, the most significant upgrade from the legacy B1/B2 bass modules to the Sub1 and Sub2 is that the new subwoofers are active, self-powered speakers.

While the old B1 and B2 were passive enclosures that needed to be plugged into a Bose L1 power stand to operate, the Sub1 and Sub2 can run as standalone powered subs. That means you can choose to run your Sub1/Sub2 with any 3rd party top speaker — or pair it with a Bose S1 Pro as your top speaker. You don’t have to plug them into a Bose L1.

You’ll notice that the Sub1/Sub2 weigh more than their B1/B2 predecessors, but that’s because the Sub1/Sub2 are powered: the speaker box now contains a power amplifier, so they’re naturally going to be heavier. Although the Sub1 is 34.7 pounds and the Sub2 is 54.8 pounds, their elongated RaceTrack speaker design and the ergonomic handle mean the Sub1/Sub2 aren’t too much trouble for a single person to carry. (And if they do turn out to be too heavy for your liking, you can always go with the L1 Pro16 instead.)

What’s more, Bose has eliminated the need for the PackLite A1 power amplifier — which used to be a necessary add-on if you wanted to run an L1 system with more than one B2 bass module, or more than two B1 bass modules. Since the Sub1/Sub2 are powered subwoofers, you don’t need to worry about schlepping separate power amps.

All the Highs, All the Lows

The Bose L1 Pro series has been a long time coming. And for all the years that the Pro8, Pro16, and Pro32 have been in development, Bose L1 systems have faced stiff competition from a never-ending procession of column speakers across all price ranges. For a product category that didn’t exist only 20 years ago, it now seems like everyone makes a “stick PA” of some kind. That’s why Bose really had to up their game with the L1 Pro series. When you compare the specs, it’s clear that the L1 Pro8, Pro16, and Pro32 legitimately outperform the L1 Model 1S and Model II. Will the L1 Pro systems grow to be even more popular than the Bose L1 Compact? Only time will tell.